Electronic Defense Against Barking, Dangerous dogs

Sonic Devices Against Barking – Stop Dog Barking

Anti dog barking devices
As promised, here you’re going to find several electronic diagrams/circuits/schematics of devices that may counter the hugely annoying, health damaging barking and the criminal danger that dogs, and their handlers, impose on regular people.

Barking dogs can make life a misery. And as luck will have it, the people who own barking dogs seldom have enough consideration to anything about it. These Dog Silencers let you do something about it. And you can solve the problem without your neighbors ever having to know that you have acted.

Note to Dog Owners

We’re just defending ourselves, NOT attacking anything. If instead of being ODORs, you the  inconsiderate owners were minimally responsible, these devices would have no reason to exist. It’s just your fault, and yours only. Please, don’t try to blame the messenger, much less the victims. Thanks.

Factors to take into consideration

Above, I emphasized the word  “may” because these devices can work on a number of dogs but may not on many others.

Unfortunately, barkers are a somewhat living thing, and so biological, meaning there is no universal solution. Of course the ultimate solution would be to have the offending mutt to be ‘disappeared,’ definitely, but most of us don’t want to get to that extreme, at least not in the beginning of our woes. We have thus must pay attention to the following:

For the highest efficiency, those devices must be used as close as possible to the canines. The animals can hear the device from hundreds of meters sometimes, however they will be only effective in a range of a few tens of meters, max. Please check the range of each of the options we are going to publish.

Most of these devices can not work well through any barriers like glass windows, walls, or fences. They have to be used in direct view of the animal, for the highest efficiency. In some cases, for the more powerful ones, they may be used with something reflecting their signal, like a brick wall, but again not all devices.

Size of dog
The size of the dog matters since this affect their hearing range and sensitivity.

Age of dog
Their age is also a factor (puppies listen more than older ones), older dogs may be almost deaf so they will not be much affected.

The only way is for you to try and observe the results you get. A friend of mine spent US$200. and got no results. However, he lent his device to a relative in another property with another barker and, yes, in that last case it worked.

This is not absolutely necessary for the device to ‘work’, however, it’s highly advisable for the equipment to be hidden in some sort so the offending person would not see it and not take some overly aggressive action, like destroying it, assaulting you, or calling the police because they think you’re ‘torturing’ his dog just because it’s barking for ‘only’ a few hours.

Just use your imagination where you could hide your anti-barker. The most imaginative you make it, the better. You may find some ideas here in this site but the best ones will be those that ODORs would never guess, or even us btw, and thus would never destroy.

The only point you must keep in mind here is that it has to have an unimpeded, unblocked opening for the sound to be generated, to get out, and to go directly towards the mutts’ ears. A thin net or screen would be OK though, like the one above.

Tweeters/Transducers – The Most Important Components, By Far!

Every time a project in this website mentions a Tweeter/Transducer (some may also call it a loud speaker, not the most appropriate term), that component Must, and I emphasize Must, be of the highest dB decibel ‘power’ you could get (actually the SPL, Sound Pressure Level). The highest the dB number, the better. The ones I recommend (you’ll find them below) have 120dBs. This is the right number (but if you know of any with better specs, please, please, please let us know!).

Note that even a small difference on this number will make a huuuuuge difference on the results. The entire project may not work at all if you use less powerful tweeters, for example in the 80/90 dBs range. These weak tweeters are the ones used in commercial barking deterrent equipments sold out there, which we already know that do Not work well. They’re the same used in kid’s toys! Ours are several and several times more powerful than those!

In case you can not buy the ones suggested below, try to find some that are – at least – above 100 dBs. Nothing below that will work well for what we want and need.

Just as a few examples: *a 114 dB transducer – a difference of just less 6 dBs – has only HALF the power of  our suggested 120 dB one; * a 108 dB transducer – a difference of just less 12 dBs – has only 1/4 ONE FOURTH (25%) the power of  our suggested 120 dB one! It’s almost ‘On’ versus ‘Off.

Their physical ‘size’ is also Not a clear statement of their power. A bigger tweeter does Not necessarily mean it is more powerful than a smaller option. What really matters, again, is the decibels number. Also, do not buy ‘equivalent’ ones like ceramics tweeters. They will NOT work.

Summary: Do your best to find the exact tweeters suggested (ps – I’m Not making any money on them, just you all know).

Safety Warning

These devices should NOT be pointed at people, much less babies, toddlers, kids or teenagers, specially if female. Also, they are intended for outdoor use only, do NOT use them in closed areas like your closed-doors bedroom (you may place the device on the open window, inside your bedroom, just pointing it outside, for example). Never place your ears (or anyone else!) near tweeters when this device is operating, even ultrasonically. The sound output is high enough to cause damage. They may be used for a few minutes only, do NOT leave them on for an extended period of time or the hugely annoying barker will get used to it and thus won’t work well anymore. Your device may burn out quite quickly as well.

Dangerous Dogs

These devices are NOT meant for defense against dangerous dogs that for example may be attacking, charging at you. Do NOT expect those equipment to deter those vicious beasts. However, the devices can be used to scare them in a number of situations, for example, when you are behind a fence in your own backyard and want the dangerous dog to get away from so close of your property. Another option is when you are riding a bike and want to scare away some stray mutts (but be aware of their ‘decision’).

With all said, let’s go to the first option that just got out.

Project One – Italian Barking Deterrent Cannon

Here you can find a project received by SpaceMan234100, on YouTube, who has a great channel with a lot of quite useful information on this matter.

This project (called here the Italian Cannon due to the fact it was designed and built by a gentleman from Italy, and there are more people from there (barking, a worldwide plague)) is quite similar to many out there using the 555 IC (Integrated Circuit). The differences are the booster section, electronically, and the ‘cannon’, the metal tube, physically.

DogSilencer1-ItalianDogCannonThe Anti Barking Italian Sound Cannon diagram can be seen above. Simple and straightforward.

The Cannon Blaster

The ‘cannon’, which is nothing more than a somewhat long tube made of PVC or metal, preferably, directs the sound/noise blast to the crazy barker so that it’s concentrated where it matters: on the dog’s ears.

This sudden ‘explosion’ is what makes the pooch to get scared and shut up, many times getting away as well.

In the case of the Italian gentleman device, pictured on the left, he used an old telescope, without all the lenses and stuff, but instead placed all the new components in there. Could any ODOR guess a ‘telescope’ is a anti-barking unit?

Where to buy the Transducer/Tweeter/Piezo

Important to note is that the tweeter is the most crucial piece.

For the device to work well we have to use the most ‘powerful’ transducer available. Powerful here means the sound pressure it can produce, in dBs, decibels, so the higher the better. The amount of ‘Watts’, the electrical power, is not exactly what matters so no need to focus on it.

Using those ultra cheap piezos will Not help you, even if you use tens of them. They have only 80/90 dBs, what is too little for what we need.

We must use piezos (other types of tweeters/transducers, like the ones made with ceramics, will NOT work here) with the highest SPL, Sound Pressure Level, well above the 100dB mark. One strongly suggested option is the transducer from Kemo, sold in Germany, with these basic specs:

Frequency range approx. 2kHz – 60 kHz
Sound pressure level max. 120 dB (± 15%)

They can be found here or here by the cost of £3.05, each, or the equivalent of US$5., so quite affordable even after import taxes and international shipping costs. If possible, please remember to always buy more than one single unit, either in case of a faulty component or in case you want to scale your device to make it more powerful.  In case someone have compatible options to buy directly in the USA, please let us know.

Where can I buy it? Can you sell me a fully assembled unit?

Unfortunately not. I’d love to have them manufactured by the thousands and make good money on the process but it wouldn’t pay for the headaches I’d get from angered dog owners, and their lawyers. I’m sure you comprehend that. (As a second thought, I’ll leave this option open in case I get lots of requests. I could perhaps build them in large quantities in another country and just export directly to individual buyers in the USA, and anywhere else. Who knows. It depends mostly on you, the people affected by the current dog craze.)

Where to get this device built?

In case you are not granted with an Electronics diploma, which are most here, understandably, then any TV repair guy, electronic technician, or robotics student, for example, could build one for you, quite affordably (but it’s best to hire non dog lovers, for the obvious reasons).

Benefits, Advantages and Drawbacks

- Affordable
- Ultrasonic (offending neighbor won't hear it)
- Powerful (when scaling)
- Scalable
- Easy to make
- Parts easy to find
- Battery operated
- Low power consumption
- Target dog must be in direct line of sight for the highest efficiency
- No Remote Control
- No automatic activation
- Single tone/frequency

How to Scale it – Make the Device Even More Powerful

First, what does ‘more powerful’ mean? It means that the noise blast will be more intense and reach a further distance at the same time more types and number of dogs could be affected and hopefully shut their mouths up.

Scaling is just the adding of more transducers, preferably doubling their amount. They must be of the same type, do not mix different ones.

  • One tweeter  – 120 dBs – 15/20 meters max
  • Two tweeters – 126 dBs – 30/40 meters max
  • Four tweeters  – 132 dBs – 45/60 meters max
  • Eight tweeters  – 138 dBs – 60/80 meters max (Really Powerful – Could make even *you* deaf, literally, if misused).

Tweeters must be placed side by side, not one after, or behind, the other. Certainly, the encasing must be of a larger size to accommodate them all even though the circuit remains the same.

How to Test the Italian Barking Deterrent

Also a great and ingenious idea from SpaceMan234100, you can use a candle in front of the barrel/cannon, about 1 foot/30 cm or so, and see the flame moving as you activate the device. Humans will not hear a thing but the ultrasonic air running through and out of the tube will make the flame dance. The more it moves, the better your equipment is.

This same principle can be used to test any of the ultrasonic anti-barking equipment demonstrated in this website.

More details in a future article.

Have Fun

Or, in better words, have your peace back!

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75 Responses to Electronic Defense Against Barking, Dangerous dogs

  1. Catherine Barber says:

    Could these circuit-diagrams be adapted to make a more portable device? Eg, if not a hand-held-size then more like a shoulder-bag perhaps?

    I imagine that obviously the bigger the device the more powerful it can be. (But also heavier). A hand-held-size device would probably not be able to be made powerful enough?

    I’d love a dog-repulsing device that I could carry onto our local park so I could walk about or sit and NOT get pestered by dog-people’s-dogs!

    • MrMAD says:

      Yes, they can be adapted to make a more portable device, close to a hand-held-size, like these (just try to extend the cannon for at least a few centimeters):

      Barking Deterrent Pistol

      Barking Deterrent Pistol

      Perhaps you may want to really extend the “cannon”, so that you concentrate the equipment’s power, to this tune (joking, but not much):

      Barking Deterrent Weapon

      As for them to be in a shoulder-bag, there’s also a possibility. You could place the device on the inside bottom of your bag, one that contains a net on the exterior like the one below so the barking deterrent device would be quite well hidden at the same time its power would not be greatly affected.

      You just reminded me of an event that happened decades ago when a horse racing ‘enthusiast’ used a device to affect competing horses, which then became completely disoriented and quit running, so that the one which he bet on could win the race. That device was a binoculars with such a similar equipment hidden inside. It would be great for use in a park full of loose mutts where ODORs think you are admiring them but doing quite the contrary. (ps: I’m Not suggesting anyone out there do this in horse racing or similar stuff because you will be caught. Not just that, but beaten to almost death and then arrested. Casinos and the likes are not dumb as dog owners).

      If you are in your own property…

      Let your imagination run wild, just like the mutts are doing today.

      Enjoy the silence!

  2. Catherine Barber says:

    These look good. I imagine the top photo’s one measured about 8 to 10 inches long…..?

    Could one specify a custom-made housing for the working parts – eg, something sizeable-enough to be effective, but that’s reasonably comfortable to hold in the hand and to operate the trigger?

    That device used to disorientate a fellow race-horse MUST’VE been powerful, so maybe a truly effective dog-repulser COULD exist…. just seems too good to be true in this world!

    I feel rebellious enough that I just wouldn’t care if the dog-owner saw this or saw what I was doing – I’d be PROUD!

    • MrMAD says:

      Regarding our “dog-repulser”, as you appropriately named it, the final size will depend on the components you find.

      The top photos show a dog deterrent using another tweeter, larger, even though less powerful. Yes, it’s about 8/10 inches.

      In case you get the original tweeter, which is quite small, just 4.1cm diameter, the encasing, a PVC tube, could be of just a 5cm diameter, and about 20/25/30cm length, with all included, even the batteries.

      It would be similar to the unit hold by the lady in the yellow pic above, just much smaller. Or, another option, is to use the ‘same’ size that lady is using, being that you could include up to four 4 tweeters in a single case, making it reaaally powerful for a hand-held device. Dogs would hear it even in another block (although not scared to death)! So, your powerful “dog-repulser” could exist, and *you* could make one!

      So, in a nutshell: buy the components first, find a suitable case for it second.

      I understand you not caring for what dog owners think or say to you if they find you with your new device, the ultrasonic dog stunner, but the point is to avoid confrontation with them as we all know they don’t think well, they are absorbed in their insanity, and many are not less than pure criminals. The aim is once more your own safety. Let’s also not forget that they may play the fake victims as they do quite well and make a scene or even call the police (even though you are in your most plain right), so a mess, something that you could avoid.

      • Catherine Barber says:

        Thanks MrMad, all very interesting stuff!

        Yes, I can see your point about not making it obvious to dog-owners what one is up to – after all, amongst other things, they could go bleating to the police that one is wielding an offensive weapon.

        I wondered therefore, could one have the housing designed to look like anything one liked? – so as to disguise what it really was, as with the ‘binoculars’ – a truly brilliant idea – especially as it sounds that with dual barrels housing the tweeters*, one can have twice the power !

        *Do I assume right that tweeters are those conical things at the front….?

        Perhaps one could have the housing designed to look like a shoulder-bag; something like these undercover investigators use: bags designed to have devices concealed inside?

        Or it seems like one could have a long barrel/shaft so as to be able to fit in several tweeters – presumably one behind the other…?

        • MrMAD says:

          Yes, you can have the housing designed to be whatever you want as long as leaving the front unblocked (a thin net or screen would be OK). One manufacturer of a similar device, although quite weak, is housing theirs inside a nice birdhouse. It’s not a secret, so I can say it here.

          Yes, the tweeter is hidden behind that little hole in the front. When an ODOR would guess it?

          This second option has 2 tweeters but still quite weak.

          Yes, tweeters are those conical things at the front but they can be of many shapes and sizes. The one in the binoculars are large, the ones I recommend are much smaller.

          Tweeters used by commercial dog barking deterrent devices are weak just to appease the dog lobby as they want it to be humane. Yeah, humane to dogs, not to humans.

          I don’t understand well what you call of ‘shoulder bag’ but, yes, with an opening for the tweeters to be pointed at the dogs, you can use any kind of housing and place them anywhere you want. Your imagination is the limit.

          To use multiple tweeters they must be placed side by side, Not one behind the other. A barrel like the one with that lady in the yellow pic is perfect.


          • Catherine Barber says:

            Love the ‘birdhouses’! I wondered how they were operated though – remote control?

            Re ‘shoulder bag’ I was thinking of something like maybe those bags used for laptops or large cameras, some of which have a shoulder strap. Ideally I’d want something a bit more compact – and with netting covering the opening where the tweeter was operating; something I could carry when out walking or sitting in my local park…..

            Of course, I’m imagining that the larger the tweeter’s diameter the more effective it is? And so therefore it’d be heavier?
            And again, having the longest possible barrel/shaft* would increase effectiveness (pack in more transducers?) – although making the device more bulky?

            *Is this what you call the ‘cannon’?

            (Sorry to ask these ignorant questions but I’m not an electronician myself, and I’d need to know the exact instructions to give to whoever I had to make it for me. Or would just showing them the circuit diagrams you’ve posted be sufficient?.
            Ideally, I’d need a dBs of 120 or more?).

            It’s really useful having the photos you’ve posted up, so again many thanks!

          • MrMAD says:

            Thanks for the nice words, Catherine!

            You may ask as many questions you want, I’m really pleased in answering them. They are intelligent questions and totally pertinent to our project here, so quite appreciated.

            The birdhouses are automatically activated as soon as a dog barks. No remote control is necessary but in some products they can be remotely activated by the affected person. It’s a good feature but as the devices are weak they do not work as intended. I could provide this kind of project but they would be quite complicated for most of us here. I’m just trying to keep things as simple as possible.

            I see what you mean by ‘shoulder bag’. Even I had one that came with my binoculars, ages ago. Yes, you can use them, a perfect cover!

            The tweeters’ physical ‘size’ is not a clear, direct statement of their power. A bigger tweeter does Not necessarily mean it is more powerful than a smaller option. What really matters, again, is the decibels number. Also, do not buy ‘equivalent’ ones like ceramics tweeters. They will Not work. Size does Not necessarily matters here.

            In case you can not buy the ones suggested ones from Germany, try to find some that are – at least – above 100 dBs. Nothing below that will work well for what we want and need. I doubt you’ll find anything above 120dBs but if you do PLEASE let us all know!

            Yes, just showing a technician the circuit diagrams will be sufficient, but show him this page and he will finish it much faster.

            The cannon is the barrel, yes, any kind of tube you could use. It’s not necessarily the longer the better but just a few centimeters would make a great difference. If you could use just a 5 centimeters tube it would already be quite nice, and would fit in your shoulder bag. Nothing longer than the Italian Cannon above is necessary though.

            In a previous question, you asked how to place the tweeters. A guy, not me, did that already:

            Unfortunately he did not use powerful tweeters, otherwise this configuration would make the barking dog jump to the Moon!

          • Catherine Barber says:

            I’m so glad you’re finding my questions ‘intelligent’! – I feel a bit of an ignoramus here, and wish I’d been clever enough to have done something useful like Electronics. But I’m pretty innumerate as I’m useless at figures and couldn’t stand maths!

            Anyway, what I’m slowly working out here (please correct if wrong)….. To have an effective device one should really have a MINIMUM of:
            -Two 4.1cm diameter tweeters side-by-side, about 2cms apart?
            -Each tweeter to be 100 – 120dBs?
            -Powered by a 22-watt Amplifier?
            -Encased in a 5cm diametre x 20cm/8-inch long tube?
            -Frequency range approx. 2kHz – 60 kHz.

            Not sure what ‘transducers’ do or where these come into this…. and you also mention ‘sound pressure level’ – is this the same as decibels?

            That’s really useful to know about the candle-flame test: the more the flame moves the more your device is working, and powerfully too.

            Also liked the pic of the 12 tweeters set-up – that’s 6 pairs of ‘binoculars’. Clearly one has to balance out portability with power – I guess that up to four 4.1cm tweeters might just about be portable…..

            Though, if one had just TWO 4.1cm tweeters, but with 120dBs – or preferably more dBs! – could one get the same effect as with four 4.1cm tweeters with, say, only 100 – 120dBs?

            It sounds like it’s harder to obtain tweeters more than 120dBs? Or, if one could do this, would it be best to have larger-diameter tweeters?

            It would be wonderful to be able to cause every barking running-at-one canine to jump to the Moon(!).

          • MrMAD says:

            Answering your questions, as simple as possible:

            -Two 4.1cm diameter tweeters side-by-side, about 2cms apart?
            OK, but see below.

            -Each tweeter to be 100 – 120dBs?
            To make thinks easier, just order the tweeter I recommended, from KEMO. Living in Europe, they will be at your doorstep in about a week or so.

            -Powered by a 22-watt Amplifier?
            There is NO need for that. Just use the schematics I provided.

            -Encased in a 5cm diametre x 20cm/8-inch long tube?
            Any tube longer than 5cm would do great.

            -Frequency range approx. 2kHz – 60 kHz.
            Again, just use the tweeter I recommend.

            Don’t worry about it. Anyway, Decibels are a unit of measure of the SPL, Sound Pressure Level.

            The 12 tweeters set-up was Not made to be portable, just powerful. Being that, it can also reach much farther distances, something that ordinary anti-barking equipment sold on the market can not even dream of. That guy lives in the fringe of a nice, large park but that is being invaded by dogs and their noise. So, he just place that above the fence and point at the barkers. Device on, dogs off! Literally!

            A tweeter size is Not a direct statement of its power. The Kemo tweeters are several orders of magnitude more powerful than the ones you see in the 12 pack.

            Yes, I’d love too to send dogs to outer space with such a device. However, they are dangerous for humans too, if they don’t know what they are doing. One could become deaf without hearing a thing!

    • MrMAD says:

      Regarding the Ultrasonic Stunner used in the race horse being so powerful, I did some digging and this is what I found:

      Describing himself as not a genius but an ingenious man, Laming testified that he invented the gun with some basic knowledge in electronics and help from the Encyclopaedia Britannica. Containing a 22-watt amplifier and miniature loudspeakers, the ultrasonic gun, which looks like the front of a jet engine, can direct a high-pitched blast directly into a horse’s ear, the court was told.



      What I can say is that it wasn’t That powerful (our Italian Cannon above is at least twice more powerful). Laming’s ultrasonic stunner device was made more powerful because he used *two* tweeters instead of one and also because of the configuration made possible by the binoculars, placing the tweeters side by side while at the same time spacing them for a few centimeters, regardless if it was intentional or not. Just helped it even more. Something anyone could replicate, now against dogs, a nicer use of such an ingenious idea.

      Click on the image below to read it in full (its right side was cutoff here)

      Ultrasonic Dog Stunner

      If you want to read more (sorry, no larger image, but you can read it below):

      Stun gun controversy shakes London’s horse racing community
      The Salina Journal › 1989 › November › 9

      (The below is an OCR Text, so, sorry for the somewhat confusing text)

      Stun gun controversy shakes London’s horse racing community LONDON (AP) – A cartoon in the London drug*conspiracy trial. races are run each year, according to initially expressed its doubts, said which witnesses have said cannot be until a week ago. Times of London showed a woman “H is recognized that there is the Jockey Club figures. Starkey’s word made it think again. heard by humans but sounds like a James Laming, one of the defend- LONDON (AP) — A cartoon in the Times of London showed a woman walking up to a betting window and telling the ticket seller: “Ten pounds to win on any horse that’s deaf.” The Jockey Club doesn’t think it’s funny, and that’s why Britain’s race tracks are on the lookout for the ultrasonic stunner, a sci-fi contraption that may be capable of affecting horse races from the stands. The Jockey Club, which oversees horse racing in the United Kingdom, told the Racecourse Association on Wednesday to come up with ways of stopping the stun gun, detailed in a London drug*conspiracy trial. ‘It is recognized that there is the possibility it could upset horses during a race,” a club statement .said. Anyone found with such a device at a track will be prosecuted, the club said. The statement represented a turnaround for the club and the latest development in a week of bizarre events touching both the soul and the wallets of a nation dedicated to fair play and deeply in love with horse racing — and betting on the races. Almost 10,000 Britons attend horse racing each day, and some 5,200 races are run each year, according to Jockey Club figures. The gun, which looks like a pair of binoculars but hides a high-powered ultrasonic transmitter, allegedly was used to stun lie de Chypre as the horse was racing toward victory in last year’s King George V Stakes at Royal Ascot. He de Chypre finished ninth in the Breeders’ Cup Turf at Gulf stream Park last Saturday, Greville Starkey, the jockey who last year was thrown from He de Chypre, says tests show the gun works. The Jockey Club, which in- initially expressed its doubts, said Starkey’s word made it think again. “It seemed prudent to ask race courses to look at the ramifications of this device, despite there being no independent evidence available,” David Pipe, the club’s spokesman, said. The club, in a statement to the nation’s 59 flat and steeplechase courses, said it still wanted to conduct its own tests to see how the gun worked. Meanwhile, it said, security should be stepped up and plans drawn to combat the high-pitched intrusion, which witnesses have said cannot be heard by humans but sounds like a firecracker going off in a horse’s ear. “Consequently, the stewards have asked the Racecourse Association to consider the security implications and to recommend any necessary additions to the Jockey Club general instructions,” the club said. “In the meantime, security arrangements remain the responsibility of race courses after consultation with the local police.” All of this concern stems from a drug trial involving three London- area men that drew scant attention until a week ago. James Laming, one of the defendants, testified that he developed the gun to fix races — or, as it is known here, to “nobble horses.” Describing himself as not a genius but an ingenious man, Laming testified that he invented the gun with some basic knowledge in electronics and help from the Encyclopedia Britannica. Containing a 22-watt amplifier and miniature loudspeakers, the ultrasonic gun — which looks like the front of a jet engine — can direct a high-pitched blast directly into a horse’s ear.

  3. Vivian L. says:

    Mr MAD, you’re just one of a kind!

    Thanks a lot for this schematics, I’ll be building mine this weekend already (my son is an electronics student, yey!), just want to see my neighbor’s dog shut up or at least to be bothered as much as my family has been for the last year or so. I know all components can be found at my local RadioShack store. I can use a not-so-powerful tweeter for the moment. I just want, need to do something fast.

    I remember the horse fixing stuff on the media, actually you can find more about it at http://articles.latimes.com/1989-11-01/sports/sp-229_1_ultrasonic-gun

    Thanks a lot for your work, Mr. MAD! You’re helping a lot of people who just want peace in their homes.

    • MrMAD says:

      Welcome to the blog, Vivian!

      Thanks for the link on the horse race fixing using an ultrasonic gun, appreciated. I just condensed all the information on a single post above. Lot’s of interesting info there.

  4. Frank says:

    MrMad…..THANKS FOR THE BLUEPRINTS. Gonna start mine right away. If you hear someone giggling and dancing on the roof…it’ll be me. Haaa….haaa. (See what those Dogs have done to me?)

    • Catherine Barber says:

      I can fully understand your reasons MrMad for not risking your neck (and your bacon!) in building these devices yourself – but you say you’re ‘keeping the option open, if you got enough requests’, so if you ever changed your mind would I be able to email you the design I’d like for the outer casing, eg perhaps looking like a shoulder-bag, with the necessary opening at the bottom, covered with netting?

      Another question: I don’t fully understand these ‘mm’ measurements as I only ‘speak English'(!) and use good old feet and inches. I looked on your Links to the Kema and AAAA Electronics websites and everything was given in these ‘mm’ measurements – so, what is ’41mm’ and ’12mm’ and ’30mm’ in inches, or fractions of an inch?

      (I just about understand using decimals, ie ’05’/’50’ is half, and ’25’ is a quarter, and ’75’ is three-quarters).

      Incidently, I live in England, UK, so I hope I’d be able to have things sent to me here?

      • MrMAD says:

        For your device to be hidden in a shoulder bag, you must make the opening(s) on the lateral sides, not on the bottom since the sound beam would not be directed to the dogs. But the shoulder bag is a nice, clever idea.

        Most measurements nowadays are made in meters, millimeters and kilometers, the metric system, sorry. To simplify, let’s just use their equivalence or the table below. They will cover almost all conversions.

        Yes, you can have the tweeters sent to you in the UK from Germany. Easier than for we the people in other continents.

        1 mm = .03937″
        .001″ = .0254 mm

        Click on the image to see it in full.

        • Catherine Barber says:

          Thanks for the measurement reference chart MrMad. I’ll keep this for future reference – and might it be useful to show to an older techician who might be more used to working in inches and fractions or decimals, so would welcome a conversion-chart…?

          Yes, when I said ‘bottom of the bag’ I was meaning an opening along the side, but next to the bottom, as I imagine/hope the sort of device I might have (more like a short telescope, or better still, binocular-shaped so as to be able to have two tweeters side-by-side?) would lie snugly along the bottom of this bag with its business end pointing where it should do!

    • MrMAD says:

      Glad you like it, Frank!

      Let us know how well it works in your case.

      Many new, different options coming soon.

  5. Peter Bright says:

    This high-power commercial noise generator has a high cost but would be very effective at introducing a new dynamic into a tense barking situation.

    Go here http://www.amazing1.com/pest-control.html and scroll down to Canine Controller.

    • MrMAD says:

      I can assure you Mr. Bright that ‘some people’ already have that device working, and working very well!

      That company seems to be a contractor for the US Army but off course they only showcase older versions of what they have in their portfolio, what for us doesn’t matter, what really matters is that it works!

      The problem is the cost, as you’ve said, a reason that only really affected people would overcome. This cost could be perhaps shared with affected family/friends as there are soooo many people being harassed by dog barking these days. One single person would not need that device to ‘train’ just one dog for too long, that problem would be resolved quite soon.

      Just to let you know, expect to pay around a thousand thousand dollars for getting your bark killer ready (although if you live in the continental USA you can get it much cheaper/ less expensive).

      Two final words: IT WORKS!

      • There has just got to be a better way that is free…

        • MrMAD says:

          I don’t believe in miracles.

          Just wishing and expecting will NOT bring us any fortune, only action will do.

          “You can’t help people by doing something for them if they could do that themselves”
          Abraham Lincoln

        • Peter Bright says:

          Matthew says “There has just got to be a better way that is free .. ”

          There is. It’s called owner intelligence as expressed in his resolve NOT to have a dog in a built-up area in the first place. No cost to him, no torture for us,and a return to peaceful, safe neighbourhoods at long last. Ahhh! Bliss!

          In using power devices to trade Noise-for-Noise we should always remember to target owner selfishness and not the dog.

          Why? Because the poor damned dog is itself an innocent victim of that same owner selfishness, a selfishness so extreme that it has become universal animal cruelty for the dog and often wilfully inflicted sadism towards barking victims nearby. These are all assaults upon the person.

          Sometimes discharging force-for-force is the only way to get through to that group of cruel brainless thick-heads called dog owners.

          Remember, primarily target the owner for he is the one at extreme and mindless fault.

          Like us, his dog is also a victim, that’s why the poor animal conveys its suffering the only way it can – by periodic or continuous barking.

          • MrMAD says:

            “There has just got to be a better way that is free .. ”
            Yes, the dog ‘owner intelligence’ is free, but free for them. We victims from dog owners’ abuses will almost never get peace and safety for free just by counting on their intelligence. The only hope is for us to try to ‘educate’ them, noting that even that is not going to be free as we are making plenty use of our time and energy.

            About power devices, we have two options, the audible one (to convince owners) and the silent one (ultrasonic, to train dogs).

            Targeting the owner first would be advisable only by using ways that can not identify the victims, like by letters. When these don’t work, still talking about power devices, one has the choice to target either the owner or the dog. Which one to choose? A personal decision depending on personal circumstances.

            Talking by personal experience, targeting the owner will most of the times escalate problems. In my dealings with these issues, targeting the dog proved to be more effective. However it was what happened with *me*, and *me* only. Other peoples circumstances will certainly differ. One has to try untill s/he finds what suits them the best.

            May the dog be a ‘victim’ as well? Ok, I agree to that. However, I can only try to solve my problems, not other peoples’ problems, much less their dogs’. The ‘Humane’ (canine) societies of the world are the ones who should worry about the “universal animal cruelty for the dog” inflicted by dog owners, not me. I really don’t have either time or willingness, or both, for that.

            What I want to say is: find what is the best for *you* (it’s not being selfish or narcissistic, but only pragmatic.)

          • MrMAD says:

            Petter, I just found, or realized, a way to target the “owner selfishness“, as you say. And not to disturb the neighbors who have no guilt about his specialism, as I advocate.

            Reviewing the Amazing1 site, I got to the “Ultrasound Deterrents for Personal, Home and Property Protection” page at http://www.amazing1.com/ultrasonics.html and they have some devices that one may use to target the doggist himself, Not the dog! And there are many options one may choose:

            – Nausea10 – Sonic Nausea Device, Assembled … $49.95 – Could cause disturbing sensations on the owner as soon as his dog starts to bark. Effective range up to 2ft/8meters, direct line of sight.

            – IPG90 – Invisible Pain Field Generator – Assembled and Ready to Use … $104.95

            – PPP10-HP -Long Range Ultrasound Pain Field Guns with Higher Power Output – High-Power version (includes Rental option) … $129.95
            PSP60 – Very High Sound Pressure Level, Fully Assembled
            (with Rental option) … $374.95

            There are also three other options that are much more powerful, and expensive, if necessary.

            The PPG300 – Generation 2 Ultrasound Pain Field Generator System with Remote Control for Home Protection with Special Issue High Powered Transducers – may in some cases overcome part of the problem that all devices may be in a direct line of sight of the target. Just go full blast from all sides.

            Like you said, target the owner, not the dog.
            I’m sure you got the idea.

            Once more, I have absolutely no relation to them, I’m not making any money with this, and this post is not an ad either.

        • Peter Bright says:

          Matthew, there’s a great success story at the link below proving that a bad neighbour can be ah, persuaded to move out for only $5.

          It’s a story where mirroring a dog owner’s behaviour by dispensing hideous noise-for-hideous noise worked to perfection.

          You can read it here http://pebri.net/index_30.htm

          • MrMAD says:

            Nice personal story you have there.

            A very similar situation also happened with me when dealing with inconsiderate neighbors.

            With a neighbor that had a couple of little but highly noisy dogs, I also used a car horn, actually a truck horn, attached to a big truck battery, which was a stand alone one, placed on my property by my wall about 2meters from the fence (so that they wouldn’t destroy it), pointing to the neighbors living room windows since all bedrooms were on the other side of their house. That battery was kept charged by a separate charger that I also assembled, it was not in the truck. It was manually operated, not automatically as there are some today.

            Every time the little yappers barked I responded with a long and loud blast, making the little beasts to run away scared.

            The owner would come outside to complain, curse, threaten… I didn’t respond. They clearly knew what was what since when I firstly and for once informed them about it.

            The police came every time they were called by the dog owner, almost never when I called because of the dogs. They said I couldn’t do that because *I* was disturbing the peace, even with the police listening to the barking *when* the police were there. I noticed the officers and the neighbors talking within laughter so I realized they were all in the same bed, there was no point in calling them anymore.

            The device worked very well to scare away the barkers but soon after they would be back again and again. The barking would also happen late in the night, early in the morning, so I got tired of having to use my device sooo many times, specially after being suddenly awaken and taking hours to be able to get to sleep again. The probably worst part was that the noise I made strongly bothered me as well, maybe even more as I was much closer to the blast. Also, I didn’t feel comfortable at all knowing that I was annoying other neighbors as well, although in a lower level since those other neighbors were doing nothing at all. I disassembled that after a while, and just later on I moved out.

            That happened several years ago when I didn’t have all the knowledge I have today. If that situation happened today I’m sure the outcome would be different, very different.

  6. Peter Bright says:

    Mr MAD says “The only hope is for us to try to ‘educate’ them .. ” but alas, nearly all our experiences indicate that innumerable unintelligent dog owners do not respond to reason.
    There is another way, as yet untried, and that is to universally shame them. How? By “thinking dog.”
    What does that mean? It means seeing the situation from the dogs’ point of view.
    Nearly all barking is the unfortunate animal’s response to the distress inflicted by owner selfishness in keeping a dog in the first place.
    The suburban circumstances of most dog confinement amounts to cruel incarceration of an animal congenitally programmed to run free. Popular acceptance, no matter how great, cannot change this fact.
    Despite this universal cruelty the so-called animal welfare groups don’t see it as such and therefore they take no remedial action, but if we can induce them, and owners, into seeing this reality then maybe there’s hope for peaceful reform after all.
    We could start by telling owners that in keeping their dogs unnaturally they are practicing animal cruelty on a vast scale, and then rub it in so hard and long that universally focused shame induces long-overdue awareness, repentance and self-correction.

    • MrMAD says:

      When I mention “educate”, what I mean is to make them permanently learn, not by simply providing them with polite letters or sending nicely informative flyers or even posting on Facebook inviting them to come read the numerous advice for responsible dog ownership on this site.


      What I mean is to make them learn And remember, all by *Fear of Consequences* of their own acts, their own anti-social behavior.

      Like you said, innumerable unintelligent dog owners do not respond to reason. I say more, unintelligent dog owners seem to compose the vast majority these days and I, just like you, do not expect them to come to any reasoning. Those unintelligent pet people seem to be even more unintelligent than their own dogs so there is no point in arguing with a closed door. You have to kick that door for it to open.


      Going after animal welfare groups and dog owners by exposing the animal torture caused on their own dogs is a very nice option indeed. One another way of ‘educating’ them.

      For doing that we would have firstly to overcome the high costs, like of money, of time, and of manpower. None of us will ever reach this goal by doing anything alone.

      There is only one way to achieve what we want: Working wisely, together.

      • Peter Bright says:

        Mr MAD, with his admirable ability to get straight to the core issues, says “What I mean is to make them learn and remember, all by “Fear of Consequences” of their own acts, their own anti-social behavior.”

        I absolutely agree.

        This means local action for local circumstances, and this is something we can all do – one way or another.

  7. Horst Hundemoerder says:

    Thanks for the great Website, at least some relief for someone who has actually MOVED TWICE from a very nice place because of barking dogs.

    Caution with the “More tweeters = more power” thing though: In order for that to work, they would all need to be in-phase, which is not easy to accomplish at these frequencies. It really is best to get one large tweeter instead of several smaller ones. Several smaller ones might even partially or totally cancel each other out, depending on frequency and arrangement.

  8. Joe says:

    Hello. Quick history. Bought the dog house style generator w/little result. Also bought the Kemo FG015 (single tweeter generator >100DB so it says) which I thought would do the trick, but no real effect. Want to assemble my own but didnt want to solder together the board so I have this question. Cant I just purchase the Kemo generator M048N & buy a couple of the high performance tweeters? Just not sure where the generator would get the battery power from. Hoping you can offer up what items other than the tweeters & the generator so I can assemble this device. Appreciate your help, Thanks, Joe

    • MrMAD says:

      Hi Joe,
      Sorry for the delay and thanks for trusting me with your questions.

      I looked upon the Kemo and found this:
      – The FG015 is too weak, just 100dB. Only works when the barker is just a couple of meters far from you.
      – The M048N is better:
      Dog Repeller

      So, you may buy their additional tweeters, up to 5 they say, BUT they are just 105dB each, which is still in the lower side. If you decie for them, use just the L001 or L003, due to their size. Even with all the 5 tweeters combined, placed side by side, it would still be kind of weak. We need waaaaay more power than that.

      I do not know their schematics so I can not offer reliable technical advice but as they are all piezzo tweeters, you may use other even more powerful tweeters, so take a look at this one:

      This tweeter is 120dB, each. Not cheap though. Combining 4 or 5 of them would make a GREAT dog repeller. For comparison, this configuration would be several times more powerful than the original Kemo. This 120dB tweeter SEEMS to be equivalent to the others and it SEEMS it can be used with the M048N, using all the 5 tweeters. Power seems Not to be a problem since piezos work on very low power.

      Powerful Do Repeller

      Canine Controller with Remote Control, High Power (Kit) http://www.amazing1.com/products/canine-controller-with-remote-control-high-power-kit.html
      So cheap, ahn? (but if I had the money I’d buy a dozen of them). Added value is that this one can “condition” not just the dirty barker but the idiotic mutt keeper as well, as it is ultrasonic AND audible!!

      Alternatively, as you seem to to be knowledgeable on this, you may build your own, by purchasing the plan/schematic (and the parts of course) at
      Yes, even by building your own with your hands and your time it would still be quite expensive but only you know if the price would be worth it.

      If you live in the USA it seems better to use the Amazing1 than the Kemo.
      To finish, you may email the people at Kemo and see what they say. We all need a SUPER POWERFUL MUTT REPELLER, in Europe too.
      (and no, Amazing1 is Not my company, nor am I making any money with this).

      Will post an article on them soon.

  9. Matt says:

    What size are the capacitors in the schematic?
    Also If i want to go up to 4 tweeters, do i need 4 separate circuits? or do i just wire them in parallel or series?

    • MrMAD says:

      Capacitors are of regular size, meaning small, since they are for DC current.

      You only need to wire them in parallel, no need for separate circuits.

      All the best with your device (and its intended goal).

  10. MrMAD,

    You’re seriously a hero, thank you so much.

    I’m in Australia so my availability of goods is different, what do you think of using these 2 piezo devices, both claim to be 120db, one is 80mm across, the other 41mm. (3.15″ and 1.6″)

    I was thinking of using PVC piping for the small one and a pringles can for the other – both approx 180-260mm in length.

    I figure 2 different ones might work better?

    I need this thing to fire a full 21 metres (70′) I’ll be aiming it into a back yard.

    Also was considering powering it with a small motorbike battery.
    12v DC, 3ah

    If I decide to make this, I will document it thoroughly.
    I would like a dial to adjust frequency and power though.

    • MrMAD says:

      Hi IP.

      Thanks a lot for your compliment. I really appreciate it. I truly say that because it’s quite demotivating when most of the people just disturn and curse and threat you because of their mutts. Quite a contrast. So, thanks again.

      Regarding the Kemo piezo, one of our readers here already tested them and they did Not perform as claimed, by far. So, I don’t think they are worth it.

      The other one, on Jaycar, is an AUDIBLE piezo siren. I don’t know about that one but there are many of them from China and they are LOUD. They work! Even if they don’t get to the true 120dB, that’s not bad, you can mount for example 4 of them together, side by side, specially for the distance you want to reach, 21m. This configuration would get you to theoretical 132db that is really LLLOOOUUUDDD!!! That would be my recomendation, multiple sirens, and get ready for the noise, you too, not just the mutt. Try not to use Pringles tubes, I think they are now made of cardboard inside so there is quite a loss of sound power. Better try to find some piece of PVC (or metal) for each of the sirens, maybe in construction sites, or buy a new one, they are not expensive.

      The battery mentioned is nice, these equipment do not require lots of power, just the right voltage.

      There is no need to use two different types of piezos. Actually, in this case you could get terrible results. Get the Jaycar’s and go from there.

      Also, by choosing the Jaycar’s, no need for a dial to adjust frequency – for the most powerful configuration, 120dB – since the frequency for that level of noise is the 3KHz, as on their specs. However, note that different dogs react differently to different frequncies and modulations. So, in this case a dial would work to find what frequency affects the mutt the most. No need to adjust power (Watts) in any case since what really matters here is the frequency.

      Hope I helped you a it. And if you build it, please share with us.

  11. MrMAD says:

    Written by Internet Post
    (Moved from http://www.anilak.com/facebook-and-death-threats-from-criminal-dog-retards/)

    Hi MrMad,

    I’m wondering if you can cover more on sonic anti-dog barking devices. Perhaps a new post on them asking fans of yours for feedback? I’d love to see some diagrams or off the shelf versions to purchase.

    Leonard on youtube has made one here, just a nice old retired guy, when you look at his profile videos, you can see he has only 1200 subscribers and about 1000 average views per video. His “Stop Dogs Barking for $20.00” video has 117,000 videos (there’s CLEARLY lots of us)

    I really want to build a handheld device like this one too https://twit.tv/shows/security-now/episodes/248 (fast forward to 57:50)

    Any more information on electronic devices would be fantastic.
    Keep up the hard work, you’re fighting the good fight against this noisy, idiotic menace.

    • MrMAD says:

      Thanks again, IP. We must do all we can to fight this idiotic menace as you also said.

      I have more info on audible and non-audible devices in my files and so as you guys demonstrate an interest, no problem, I;ll publish them soon. I enjoy doing that anyway. I may Not sell them but let’s see what happens.

      Mr Leonard from Youtube made a very nice device, simple and affordable. Anyone can do it, so you guys know it. Just get the parts together. (BTW I am among the 117k viwers, more than once.)

      He used the affordable XTC3300 (http://www.amazon.com/Nippon-America-XTC3300-Tweeter-Model/dp/B00IZ4WZWE) tweeters, 4 in total. They are just 97dB (and we do Not know in which frequency) that is too weak for applications like in my previous comment, but no problem here since his is a different approach. There many other equivalent models. Anyway, the distance the device can get to is relatively short, maybe just acroos a fence or a backyard.

      Some examples of amplifiers could be the http://www.amazon.com/Fentac-Kinter-MA-170-Amplifier-Motorcycle/dp/B01E0PZPAU/ref=sr_1_22?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1463508525&sr=1-22&keywords=sound+amplifier or the http://www.amazon.com/Koolertron-Compact-Amplifier-Control-Motorcycle/dp/B012ZSOSRA/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463508358&sr=1-22&keywords=sound+amplifier that has a really useful remote control. None of them will get even close to the claimed 600W, and you do Not want to, unless you want to burn out your tweeters.

      He made some clever ‘hacks’:
      – Used a stereo (dual channel) system that may affect or confuse even more the mutts. More effective;
      – Used the PVC tubes to concentrate the sound power;
      – Used two columns of PVC tuebs, one for each channel;
      – Used two different lenghts for each collum of tubes, which alters the range and/or frequency;
      – Used free dog whistle sounds, most not heard by humans, so it’s silent for us;

      What he did was (so anyone can too, by looking at the video):
      – Get an MP3 player
      – Record some dog whistle sounds on the MP3
      – Get some pieces of PVC tubes, cut them in 2 diferent sizes, glue them to a wood board
      – Install the tweeters on the PVC tubes
      – Connect the tweeters wires to the amplifier
      – Blast the mutts!

      – Do not let it on 24/7, otherwise the mutt will get used to it and will not respond anymore
      – Do not not place your ears in front of the tubes to check if it’s working. Use a dB meter app on your smartphone for that.
      – Do not use it next to kids, SPECIALLY BABIES.

      Do it all the right way, enjoy the silence!

    • MrMAD says:

      Regarding the portabl device, thanks for the video, quite interesting. I watched on Youtube.

      His device relied mostly on a powerful tweeter (transducer) and looked like, visually, this:

      dog killer

      Point is that that transducer was of military grade, something that at least for me, I’m unable to get since I live thousands of miles from the closest one. Anyway, if you or anybody has any source of those surplus military devices, online, please let us know.

      And those pistols already exist:
      1dog killer
      2dog killer

      All here http://www.amazing1.com/ultrasonics.html

      You may buy either the devices or the diagrams. They offer each option. Always choose theirs 120dB. I know someone who already some of those.


  12. MrMAD says:

    Dear visitors to the blog,

    I’ve been constantly receiving requests from people asking me if I could build a super powerful, special device to deal with their dog problems.

    Sorry to say guys but I have nothing confidencial or secret that I use.

    Also, I’m unable to build anything for you, for several reasons, even with your offer of a handsome pay, and I sincerely express my gratitude. But once more I can’t.

    What I recommend is that you vist the site here http://www.amazing1.com/ultrasonics.html and choose the best option for you according to your needs and budget. I just noticed that now they have an option for renting some of their most expensive (and powerful) devices and so that may be an option for you, specially if you are in the US. Also, some of those devices are now an improved version, so even more powerful. Me and other members already searched the net and, for us mere mortals, these are the best our money can buy.

    Anyway, this is my sincere advice. And I want to finish by saying that I have absolutely no relation to them, I’m not making any money with this, and this post is not an ad either.

  13. Catherine Barber says:

    These ‘amazing1’ devices look – well, amazing! Almost too good to be true.

    Could these really fulfil my lifelong dream of simply aiming, pulling a trigger/pressing a button – and, in effect ‘shooting’ ultrasonic ‘bullets’ at an invasive, or charging, or an annoying barking, dog – and the dog simply turning tail and legging it, and/or just damn well shutting up!

    However, as I’m merely an individual and living in the UK, would I ever be able to have one of these devices shipped over here – or, without having to pay astronomical import/customs charges……

    And, would it be illegal to be in possession of such a device……

    • MrMAD says:

      I have no idea about import charges into the UK but I suppose they do not tend to be astronomical. One large fee is the Fedex/UPS that may be counted as around US$100 just as a guesstimate. You perhaps could check your post office website (that are cheaper if you use them), they usually offer online tools to calculate those fees.

      Regarding their ‘legality’ in the UK, as far as I know they are still Legal. I say that because I heard that some doggist politician was trying to prohibit those devices, against dogs only, not people, they don’t care about people who pay their monstrous salaries and undeserved benefits. We probably would know if they were prohibited already. Doggists would cheer about it.

      May advice: Ask them, the Amazing1 guys. I’m quite certain they sell to the UK too.

  14. Yapping Dog Hater says:

    Mr. Mad,
    With all the worldwide demand for ultrasonic bark deterrents and yet such terrible reviews posted for the commercial models…. isn’t there someone you can refer us to interested in making them up if paid in advance? I just don’t have time to build one myself.

    Luckily I can hide one within close range in some shrubs. But I only want to bother installing something that will be effective.

    Keep up the good work.

    • MrMAD says:

      Hi, YDH.

      The only recommendation I can give you of a powerful, really powerful device, is to contact the people at Amazing1 that I talked about here at http://www.anilak.com/the-worlds-most-powerful-stop-dog-barking-device/.

      It’s not cheap, US$450.

      In fact, they have an even more powerful, hugely powerful, literally the world’s most powerful second none (except military devices, which we regular people can not buy, no matter what). Price is about US$900, and can only be purchased by getting in direct contact with them. All the contact details are in the page above.

      In case you need something much Less powerful, but portable, this one may suit your needs:

      It seemed to be dedicated to the Russian market and so they are not widely known in the west. This video tells a better story and you need Not to speak Russian:

      Hope you all the best and please let us know (or just me if you want privacy) of what happened.

      Anyway, before you spend so much money, be sure you have tried all options available, electronic or not, ultrassonic or not, speacily the very cheap ones first. They may solve your problem, we never know. Unfortunately there is no 100% perfect solution for 100% of all the problems we have with dogs.

      • Another Yapping Dog Hater says:

        Mr MAD,
        I second what Yapping Dog Hater said above.
        You seem to know a lot about these devices, equipments and ultrasonics and such, and you also already know lots of people and companies that could develop and/or manufacture that for you and then to your clients here in your site.
        As we all can see thhere is no shortage of highly interested customers.
        I’d be one of them. For sure.

        ps The f*&*&$#$#ing dog is still barking for hours from where I don’t know.

  15. Stefano says:

    The distance, for me, it’s the main point to take care of.
    In the russian video test, the best product was measured at 120db at about 1 meter.
    the same device, so, should produce about 146db measured at 5 centimeters
    but only 94db heard at 20 meters…

    Kemo tells, for their products “devices should have a sound pressure level of 100 dB in order to avoid habituation”

    the best devices tested by the Russians, will produce 100db at about 10 meters.
    Over 10 meters will become not so useful.

    So will be relatively easy to build something that works well at few meters from the dogs, but much more complicated to project one for further distances.

    I’ve not yet built my device. Some of you with working project at home, can do some field tests?

    • MrMAD says:

      Stefano, I can guarantee you that NO electronic device built by us – regular people, non-bilionaries, non-military guys – will produce 146db. None at all.

      Unless you are willing to pay US$100K+ to build one, fom research to completion. Then, it’s possible. As I don’t think so, we have to do what we can.

      We are talking two different things here: the personal and the fixed one.

      The personal one is suitable only for when you are walking outside, like in the sidewalk or backyard. The russian one works nicely for what it is intended for: to avoid and to put away ankle biters and loose dogs on the beach.

      The fixed one is for your residence. The one at http://www.anilak.com/the-worlds-most-powerful-stop-dog-barking-device/ is appropriate for most situations. You don’t need to exactly pick on the numbers here because it produces an “extra variable” that will make the noise heard by the dog even more disturbing. It won’t be harmful, just disturbing, what is enough in most cases.

      Please don’t pay too much attention on what the Kemo people says; they work with other kind of animals, dogs are not their forte.

      I reaffirm what I said: visit the page above, contact them and ask for the 8X (eight transducers). They will know what to do.

      But if you are willing to pay US$100K+ for yours, I am here, ok??!!

      • Stefano says:

        Sorry, caused by my not native English, you have misunderstood the meaning of my message.

        I was trying only to point the attention to the db and the distance.

        In the video you linked https://youtu.be/Sj6PemvhMd0
        the Russians test a lot of devices.
        They measure them at about one meter, and the highest results was close to 120db.
        So we can tell 120db/1m
        The dogs will receive a sound at 120db when you are at one meter from their ears.
        but the value will decrease a lot if the dog is at 10 meters.
        for this reason I was asking your experiences about the efficacy of the same device at different distances.

        the device that was giving 120db at 1 meter, tested with the microphone at 10 meters, how many db will show? about 100db?


        • MrMAD says:

          No problem, Stefano, I understood your question quite well.

          To keep it simple, let’s not worry about math calculations but instead focus on the devices themselves. The higher dBs they produce, the more effective they are, the better they are for us.

          The best personal device we found was the russian one, 120 dB (at 1 meter, as this is the correct way it’s measured). I don’t think we are going to find anything better than that in normal circumstances, so that is what we have. As noted, this one is for shorter distances. Other commercial devices, the famous ones, are usually in the 100dB or less, so no use for us when compared to the russian one.

          So, what are my “experiences about the efficacy of the same device at different distances”: I never used the russian “dog scatterer” device but it seems it does quite well its job: getting the dogs’ attention – making them shut up – and sending them away to bark and poop anywhere else.

          Every case will be different: different breeds of dogs, ages of dogs (older dogs hear less, some are already deaf (due to their own loud barking?)), dog’s adaptation to ‘strange’ noises (have they ever been trained with dog whistles, for example?), are the dogs inside the house behind a window or outside on he lawn, and so on.

          I admit, I didn’t answer your question well but one thing I can tell you: we will only know if and after we try.

          Man, there may be a nice business opportunity here…

  16. Gina says:

    here is the website that sells Barking Deterrent AND 130Db Transducer that you can purchase separately and plug into Deterrent. Yes, it’s expensive, but when you have a pitbull barking almost under your bedroom window, all night, non-stop, from 11pm to 6am, you will pay ANY money in the world for a good sleep.


    • MrMAD says:

      Thanks for the tip, Gina.

      We the members here already talked about this company before but for some reasons it didn’t fare well among us.

      Is that your site? Your company? Or do you know the owners well? If so, I’d like to talk to you in greater detail.

      Just a remark, Amazing1.com is getting a lot of business from here, I suppose, at least I’m referring a lot of visitors/prospect buyers to them in a daily basis. I never talked to them, just to let everybody know.

      With your 130dB transducers we have a large market open for the taking.

      Please let me know, here or in private.


      • Gina says:

        oh no, it is not my site, I found that site through Google in my desperate attempt to shut up the neighbors dog, was searching for something more powerful than commercial deterrents you can buy in stores.

        I’ve just ordered from them, my order hasn’t arrived yet, but once it arrives, I will post an update and let you know if it works. I sure hope it does!!! For that price… LOL

    • Alan says:

      130dBs? That’s a lot, really a lot of sound power. You people must remember it’s the threshold of pain. Not a kid’s toy.
      If that’s all true, with an up to 300 meter range, our pooch nghtmares are over. I’d pay handsomly for somethig like that, again, if and only if that works.
      I’d like to kow more too.
      Keep up the good work you all people who run this site. We need it.

    • Azman says:

      I want one too!

      However their site seems so amateurish. Different collors everywhere. Inonsistent information. No technical details. They may be smart guys if what they claim is real but they really seem unprofessional to the core.

    • Gina says:

      Well guys.. Here is my unbiased review. It is going to be long, so bear with me.

      I got my order. I ordered a dog deterrent + 130Db transducer. What can I say… It is VERY powerful. I don’t know how to measure dB, but it has a handle that you can turn to change frequency, and even when it’s in a slightly audible range the noise is absolutely UNBEARABLE. I can imagine how bad it sounds to a dog or any creature that can hear an ultrasound. But… it is NOT a dog barking deterrent!! It is just a very strong ultrasound emitter and a repeller. It doesn’t have a sensor (or microphone) to detect the bark and automatically turn itself on and off. And without that, how can it teach a dog not to bark?!!

      So, decide yourself if that’s what you need. I read a review from one guy, who was happy with this device, he said his neighbors have 4 dogs. They let them out in the backyard, they start barking, he turns the device on, the dogs get horrified by the noise, start scratching the door like crazy and the owners let them back in. The problem solved. Unfortunately, this is not my case. My neigbors have a pitbull who stays outside all the time. He has a dog house and a gated area outside, next to my fence, and they’d rather let him die than take him inside the house (or play with him, or take him for a walk). I’m surprised they don’t keep him on the chain! He sleeps all day and barks all night. I cannot really get out of the bed to turn the device on and off manually at nights. He has no escape from the noise, and my point is to teach him not to bark, not to torture him. He is not stupid, just miserable and unhappy with his idiots-owners.

      I’ve also purchased a barking deterrent from Amazon, less powefull, but with a remote control. Btw, that’s the one they bash on their website as not powerful enough. Yes, maybe it is not 120Db as advertised, but it works better, because it has a sensor and a remote control. I manage to slowly teach him not to bark. It is working, not as fast as I’d like, but now he barks much less and not the entire night as before. I can turn it on from my upstairs bedroom when he barks too much. We are slowly making progress, and I am afraid that with this device (that doesn’t turn itself off) our progress will go down the drains.

      However, I am going to keep it. First of all, the device is not bad or faulty. It is my own fault for not reading carefully, nowhere on their site it says it has a sensor or microphone. Though I DO believe that without it they shouldn’t advertise it as a barking deterrent. However, as a repeller it probably works, as it is indeed very powerful. And we DO have problems with raccoons in winter, 3 years ago raccoons killed my cat. I wished I had this device back then, maybe my kitty would be alive now. We also have problem with kids skateboarding on everybody else’s driveway, except their own. Will see how it works as repeller.

      I really think they should put a sensor in their device, and a remote control, than it will be a VERY good device. Shouldn’t be that hard, since even cheap Chinese devices have it. But looks like it’s not their agenda, this company specializes on scaring different creatures (human or otherwise) away from properties, not the barking dogs.

      • MrMAD says:

        Thanks a lot for your review, Gina.

        Great to know that you got your device and it’s working well, better yet, powerfully.

        You’re right about the barking sensor as this is what will make the mutt be punished by its own barking. Just continuously blasting the ultrasound would not help much in the near future as the mutt will get used to it and think it’s a normal alhough irritating noise and won’t change its behavior. Their loss I guess.

        I’ve contacted them via their only email in the site since last week but they didn’t reply. Maybe they didn’t receive it but as a company, unlikely. Do you have a customer email I could try to contact them for a last time? That would be great.


        In case you want to check how many dBs it produces, there are several free decibelimeters/decibel-meters either for iPhones and Android smartphones. To test, just install one, place your smartphone at one meter distance right in front of the device and turn it on for a couple seconds. The app will show approximately how loud the device is.

        Anyway, thanks again.

        • Gina says:

          Their email address is listed on their site, on “About Myskunkworks” page. I have the same one. I had to contact them twice during my order, and to be fair, I received a prompt reply within few hours, so it’s working. But I guess they only reply to customers. :)

          As for Db measuring, I do have an application on my cellphone, but I cannot measure ultrasound, it gives no reading. I tried it on other deterrents, same thing. My phone cannot detect any noise, I guess you have to make it audible, but with their device it’s too much for my ears.

          I also have to say that even when in ultrasound frequency the device is not mute. It turns itself on and off every 2-3 seconds (to avoid overheating as manual says), and when it does it makes a click noise. With a transducer this click is loud, my cell-phone shows it as 60Db. But that’s just clicking, not an ultrasound itself.

          • MrMAD says:

            I suppose it’s official now, MySkunkWorks will Not answer my emailS. So, I will Not recommend them.

            Are they hiding something? Don’t they want to talk to some people who understand the subject? Are they unprofessional to the bone? For example, their “company” address is Not listed anywhere on their website, which is poorly designed go a “company”. Anyway, bye to them here.

            I now can confess that when I heard you had purchased their device, I was cautious if you were even going to receive Anything for what you’d paid for. Fortunately you got your package.

            Gina, I just would like to ask one thing: is there any identification (brand/name/numbers) on the 130dB tweeter/transducer? If so, please let me know. I’m sure they are not the manufacturer, just the reseller, be it from China or a US/European military surplus store.

            It’d be fantastic if you could tell us that.

            Thanks in advance, Gina.

  17. MrMAD says:

    Have anyone SEEN the barking of a, well, barking dog (I’m not talking about the dog itself)?

    No? Me neither.

    But take a look of how sound waves are shown in the form of salt on a metal plate (there is a loud-speaker underneath the metal plate playing increasing frequencies).

    Now just imagine how barking would be; perhaps the images of ghosts, demons, spears, swords, nails, dead people, witches… would appear all over that plate…

  18. Gina says:

    There is no markings on the box at all. Just a grey box with a horn and plug (to plug it into deterrent). You can unscrew it and look inside at the parts, but honestly I didn’t, as I don’t understand it anyway, I am just a housewife, not an engineer LOL.

    But the noise is indeed very strong. If you put it in a slightly (just slightly!!) audible noise it’s like a sharp razor for the ears, it physically hurts. The noise sounds like when they try to adjust a faulty microphone on the stage, like that high-pitched squealing noise, that’s what it is, and louder you make it more horrible it is. And I only turned the handle a little bit, not even a quarter of the way! I think it is indeed 130Db. A dog cannot get used to it, as it hurts. So, now when he hears it he just hides in his dog house.

    But you are right, it is strange they don’t answer you, no good. Their device is so strong that it can easily cause hearing damage if used improperly (and some people use it not only on dogs but on teens loitering!), so maybe they don’t list their address because they are afraid of lawsuits???

    • MrMAD says:

      Thanks a lot, Gina. Nice to know how it works.

      Lawsuits concern is something I consider to be the biggest problem for a company in this business. ODORs wouldn’t give a second of relief for them.

      But in the case of MSW, I don’t think that is the reason, as there are ways to make good money in let’s say, alternative ways, something that I’d be interested in discussing with them. They don’t want? Ok, bye. My assumpton is that they are just a garage shop, run by teenagers, no offense here, just my assumption. That’s what their website shows as well. Anyway.

      Gina, as a real last question, I’d like to ask you again if there is something written specifically on the back of the horn/tweeter, not in the box. There is no unscrewing to do. Like in this pic:


      The tweeter is the only part preventing me of going ahead.

      I’d really appreciate if you could help me again.

      Thanks a lot.

    • PeaceSeeker says:

      Dear Gina, were you able to get the info Mr Mad wished to know? If you were, please let us know.

  19. Bravo says:

    Strange it is, not responding. I,m sure they,re losing a lot of business from here with all the people looking for something powerful.

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