Sonic Devices Against Barking – Stop Dog Barking
As promised, here you’re going to find several electronic diagrams/circuits/schematics of devices that may counter the hugely annoying, health damaging barking and the criminal danger that dogs, and their handlers, impose on regular people.
Barking dogs can make life a misery. And as luck will have it, the people who own barking dogs seldom have enough consideration to anything about it. These Dog Silencers let you do something about it. And you can solve the problem without your neighbors ever having to know that you have acted.
Note to Dog Owners
We’re just defending ourselves, NOT attacking anything. If instead of being ODORs, you the inconsiderate owners were minimally responsible, these devices would have no reason to exist. It’s just your fault, and yours only. Please, don’t try to blame the messenger, much less the victims. Thanks.
Factors to take into consideration
Above, I emphasized the word “may” because these devices can work on a number of dogs but may not on many others.
Unfortunately, barkers are a somewhat living thing, and so biological, meaning there is no universal solution. Of course the ultimate solution would be to have the offending mutt to be ‘disappeared,’ definitely, but most of us don’t want to get to that extreme, at least not in the beginning of our woes. We have thus must pay attention to the following:
For the highest efficiency, those devices must be used as close as possible to the canines. The animals can hear the device from hundreds of meters sometimes, however they will be only effective in a range of a few tens of meters, max. Please check the range of each of the options we are going to publish.
Most of these devices can not work well through any barriers like glass windows, walls, or fences. They have to be used in direct view of the animal, for the highest efficiency. In some cases, for the more powerful ones, they may be used with something reflecting their signal, like a brick wall, but again not all devices.
Size of dog
The size of the dog matters since this affect their hearing range and sensitivity.
Age of dog
Their age is also a factor (puppies listen more than older ones), older dogs may be almost deaf so they will not be much affected.
The only way is for you to try and observe the results you get. A friend of mine spent US$200. and got no results. However, he lent his device to a relative in another property with another barker and, yes, in that last case it worked.
This is not absolutely necessary for the device to ‘work’, however, it’s highly advisable for the equipment to be hidden in some sort so the offending person would not see it and not take some overly aggressive action, like destroying it, assaulting you, or calling the police because they think you’re ‘torturing’ his dog just because it’s barking for ‘only’ a few hours.
Just use your imagination where you could hide your anti-barker. The most imaginative you make it, the better. You may find some ideas here in this site but the best ones will be those that ODORs would never guess, or even us btw, and thus would never destroy.
The only point you must keep in mind here is that it has to have an unimpeded, unblocked opening for the sound to be generated, to get out, and to go directly towards the mutts’ ears. A thin net or screen would be OK though, like the one above.
Tweeters/Transducers – The Most Important Components, By Far!
Every time a project in this website mentions a Tweeter/Transducer (some may also call it a loud speaker, not the most appropriate term), that component Must, and I emphasize Must, be of the highest dB decibel ‘power’ you could get (actually the SPL, Sound Pressure Level). The highest the dB number, the better. The ones I recommend (you’ll find them below) have 120dBs. This is the right number (but if you know of any with better specs, please, please, please let us know!).
Note that even a small difference on this number will make a huuuuuge difference on the results. The entire project may not work at all if you use less powerful tweeters, for example in the 80/90 dBs range. These weak tweeters are the ones used in commercial barking deterrent equipments sold out there, which we already know that do Not work well. They’re the same used in kid’s toys! Ours are several and several times more powerful than those!
In case you can not buy the ones suggested below, try to find some that are – at least – above 100 dBs. Nothing below that will work well for what we want and need.
Just as a few examples: *a 114 dB transducer – a difference of just less 6 dBs – has only HALF the power of our suggested 120 dB one; * a 108 dB transducer – a difference of just less 12 dBs – has only 1/4 ONE FOURTH (25%) the power of our suggested 120 dB one! It’s almost ‘On’ versus ‘Off.
Their physical ‘size’ is also Not a clear statement of their power. A bigger tweeter does Not necessarily mean it is more powerful than a smaller option. What really matters, again, is the decibels number. Also, do not buy ‘equivalent’ ones like ceramics tweeters. They will NOT work.
Summary: Do your best to find the exact tweeters suggested (ps – I’m Not making any money on them, just you all know).
These devices should NOT be pointed at people, much less babies, toddlers, kids or teenagers, specially if female. Also, they are intended for outdoor use only, do NOT use them in closed areas like your closed-doors bedroom (you may place the device on the open window, inside your bedroom, just pointing it outside, for example). Never place your ears (or anyone else!) near tweeters when this device is operating, even ultrasonically. The sound output is high enough to cause damage. They may be used for a few minutes only, do NOT leave them on for an extended period of time or the hugely annoying barker will get used to it and thus won’t work well anymore. Your device may burn out quite quickly as well.
These devices are NOT meant for defense against dangerous dogs that for example may be attacking, charging at you. Do NOT expect those equipment to deter those vicious beasts. However, the devices can be used to scare them in a number of situations, for example, when you are behind a fence in your own backyard and want the dangerous dog to get away from so close of your property. Another option is when you are riding a bike and want to scare away some stray mutts (but be aware of their ‘decision’).
With all said, let’s go to the first option that just got out.
Project One – Italian Barking Deterrent Cannon
Here you can find a project received by SpaceMan234100, on YouTube, who has a great channel with a lot of quite useful information on this matter.
This project (called here the Italian Cannon due to the fact it was designed and built by a gentleman from Italy, and there are more people from there (barking, a worldwide plague)) is quite similar to many out there using the 555 IC (Integrated Circuit). The differences are the booster section, electronically, and the ‘cannon’, the metal tube, physically.
The Anti Barking Italian Sound Cannon diagram can be seen above. Simple and straightforward.
The Cannon Blaster
The ‘cannon’, which is nothing more than a somewhat long tube made of PVC or metal, preferably, directs the sound/noise blast to the crazy barker so that it’s concentrated where it matters: on the dog’s ears.
This sudden ‘explosion’ is what makes the pooch to get scared and shut up, many times getting away as well.
In the case of the Italian gentleman device, pictured on the left, he used an old telescope, without all the lenses and stuff, but instead placed all the new components in there. Could any ODOR guess a ‘telescope’ is a anti-barking unit?
Where to buy the Transducer/Tweeter/Piezo
Important to note is that the tweeter is the most crucial piece.
For the device to work well we have to use the most ‘powerful’ transducer available. Powerful here means the sound pressure it can produce, in dBs, decibels, so the higher the better. The amount of ‘Watts’, the electrical power, is not exactly what matters so no need to focus on it.
Using those ultra cheap piezos will Not help you, even if you use tens of them. They have only 80/90 dBs, what is too little for what we need.
We must use piezos (other types of tweeters/transducers, like the ones made with ceramics, will NOT work here) with the highest SPL, Sound Pressure Level, well above the 100dB mark. One strongly suggested option is the transducer from Kemo, sold in Germany, with these basic specs:
|Frequency range||approx. 2kHz – 60 kHz|
|Sound pressure level||max. 120 dB (± 15%)|
They can be found here or here by the cost of £3.05, each, or the equivalent of US$5., so quite affordable even after import taxes and international shipping costs. If possible, please remember to always buy more than one single unit, either in case of a faulty component or in case you want to scale your device to make it more powerful. In case someone have compatible options to buy directly in the USA, please let us know.
Where can I buy it? Can you sell me a fully assembled unit?
Unfortunately not. I’d love to have them manufactured by the thousands and make good money on the process but it wouldn’t pay for the headaches I’d get from angered dog owners, and their lawyers. I’m sure you comprehend that. (As a second thought, I’ll leave this option open in case I get lots of requests. I could perhaps build them in large quantities in another country and just export directly to individual buyers in the USA, and anywhere else. Who knows. It depends mostly on you, the people affected by the current dog craze.)
Where to get this device built?
In case you are not granted with an Electronics diploma, which are most here, understandably, then any TV repair guy, electronic technician, or robotics student, for example, could build one for you, quite affordably (but it’s best to hire non dog lovers, for the obvious reasons).
Benefits, Advantages and Drawbacks
- Ultrasonic (offending neighbor won't hear it)
- Powerful (when scaling)
- Easy to make
- Parts easy to find
- Battery operated
- Low power consumption
|- Target dog must be in direct line of sight for the highest efficiency
- No Remote Control
- No automatic activation
- Single tone/frequency
How to Scale it – Make the Device Even More Powerful
First, what does ‘more powerful’ mean? It means that the noise blast will be more intense and reach a further distance at the same time more types and number of dogs could be affected and hopefully shut their mouths up.
Scaling is just the adding of more transducers, preferably doubling their amount. They must be of the same type, do not mix different ones.
- One tweeter – 120 dBs – 15/20 meters max
- Two tweeters – 126 dBs – 30/40 meters max
- Four tweeters – 132 dBs – 45/60 meters max
- Eight tweeters – 138 dBs – 60/80 meters max (Really Powerful – Could make even *you* deaf, literally, if misused).
Tweeters must be placed side by side, not one after, or behind, the other. Certainly, the encasing must be of a larger size to accommodate them all even though the circuit remains the same.
How to Test the Italian Barking Deterrent
Also a great and ingenious idea from SpaceMan234100, you can use a candle in front of the barrel/cannon, about 1 foot/30 cm or so, and see the flame moving as you activate the device. Humans will not hear a thing but the ultrasonic air running through and out of the tube will make the flame dance. The more it moves, the better your equipment is.
This same principle can be used to test any of the ultrasonic anti-barking equipment demonstrated in this website.
More details in a future article.
Or, in better words, have your peace back!